This sounds hard but really isn't once you get used to it. Now edit them in GIMP per the instructions in my Materialize tutorial. See my Materialize tutorial at for more details about this process:Ĥ. Use the Materialize program to create the normal, height map, AO and other textures maps you will need from the albedo file you created and save them. jpg texture files I have found and with GIMP converted them to the size and file format I need.ģ. Create an albedo file (AKA Diffuse texture) to be the same size and file format. Use GIMP to determine the size of the existing textures (albedo, normal and parameters) you would need to replace and the file format (ie tga or png).Ģ. You would use a combination of Materialize and GIMP, both of which are free to do that, or their commercial equivalents for those who want to pay. Re-skinning should not be all that hard, although it will take some more effort on your part as you are dealing with three textures and not one or two. I do not reskin to me that is a exercise in futility since without the mesh you are just guessing That is the workflow in a nutshell and YES it is easier than doing photo textures when you are trying to skew and distort and stretch to make a pic work if you didn't take it and get perfect 90 degree shots. Then once the model looks good in substance I export those textures and clicking one button after setting res and exporter and my 3 files are done and ready to place on that simple material in 3ds and then name it properly and export.īasically it is color masking on steroids Now you CAN free paint anything you want but if I am just gonna have 8 materials 3 wood and 5 metal for example, I use color selection since it is fast and easy and I can tweak the look as I go along. Then there is a fbx exporter for substance for 3ds as I am sure there is for blender as well that exports the mesh to substance and once you are in substance I put different materials on layer by layer using a COLOR map as a guide. I assign each material a separate ID and assign a different color to each using the multi sub object (and I am sure there is something similar in blender) now once I get all the parts and pieces colored the way I want I render that out to a single texture and set up a simple material and use that map and put that on all the meshes. 3DCoat will create the 4 layers for you.I use 3ds max and yes I model the same old way and set up the UV's now where the workflow has changed for me anyway is as I am working I keep track of how many materials I want on the model. Then after that it will be ready to use as a strip or regular alpha. Select an obj model and 3DCoat will open a panel for you to adjust the model. Strips and Alphas can both use obj models as a base for you to use. Open up 3DCoat, Click on new and Select your PSD file. It helps to get rid of any jaggy edges when using the alpha or strip. Side Note: I normally slightly blur my color and height map layer. Then I rename the duplicate color layer to Color. Next I merge the bottom color layer to the heightmap layer. What I do is first create my alpha image on the color layer and after I am done, I duplicate the color layer. Make sure the layers names are correct as shown in my image. Any lighter grey will be height and any darker grey will be negative height (intrusions) HeightMap layer. That is the convention that 3DCoat uses for all it's alphas and strips.ģDCoat uses 127,127,127 grey for zero depth. It is very easy to create alphas for 3DCoat.įirst, you will need any paint program that will save PSD files like Gimp, Krita or Photoshop itself.Ĭheck the image I uploaded and look at the 4 layers. Till then the below will get you started. If I have time in a week or so, I will make alpha and strip making tutorial.
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